Dress "in French". Fashion of the 18th century.
Jeanne Dubarry was remembered as the last favorite of King Louis XV of France. Using this work as an example, we will get acquainted with the “dress in French” (French “robe à la française”) The costume is made taking into account the cut of the 1760s. A distinctive feature of the dress is the back, it had a pair of vertical folds, turning into a train. One of the greatest artists of the Rococo era, Antoine Watteau, in his canvases, accurately conveyed the elegance of a woman's attire, the movement of draperies and the sophistication of folds on the back, which became known as "Watteau folds".
Silk taffeta, satin, muslin, linen and cotton were used to sew the dress. The fabrics were embroidered with patterns of flowers and leaves, silver and gold threads were used. They were also decorated with prints with exotic and decorative motives. The pattern was applied by hand or using special machines. Mass production of fabrics was established in Europe. French manufactories became famous for the quality of the material and supplanted the Italian silk fabrics that dominated fashion in the previous century.
The front of the dress is swinging. The suit is complemented by a wide skirt. The shape of the dress was supported by a special frame made of steel hoops or plates of whale barnier (fr. Panier - “basket”). The dress has double pagoda sleeves. Lace frills - "engagements" add a special charm to them. An important part of the suit is "stomak". This is the front of the bodice, going down to the waist and covering the chest. As a rule, it was embroidered with metallic or colored threads, cords, lace inserts and fringes.
"Dress in French" was the official women's clothing of the French court from the reign of Louis XV to the French Revolution (almost to the end of the XVIII century). Fashion reflected the ideals of the upper strata of society and the aesthetic ideals of the time - an interest in the sophisticated, whimsical and exotic, unbridled detail, the desire for sensual pleasure, intrigue and adventure. A riot of fabric colors, incredible shapes, frills, laces, engagents, bows, artificial flower ornaments reflect the spirit of the times and the style of the Rococo era.
Author: Svetlana Kiseleva @svetlana_art_dolls
List of references:
- Fukai, A. et al. Fashion history from the 18th to the 20th century. Collection of the Kyoto / Fukai Costume Institute. And others M .: Art-Rodnik, 2003 .-- 709 p.
- Edwards, Lydia. How to Read a Dress: A Guide to Fickle Fashion From Elizabeth Tudor to the Unisex Era / Lydia Edwards [trans. from English I.Yu. Krupicheva]. - Moscow: Eksmo, 2019 .-- 224 p. : (Fashion history in detail).
- Sotnikova, N.N. Countess of Dubarry. An intimate story of the favorite of Louis XV / N. N. Sotnikov - "Alistorus", 2018
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