Women's skirt transformation.
Exciting mini, various midi, mysterious maxi ...
Truly, a skirt is an amazing piece of women's wardrobe. It is appropriate in any situation and is present in any style of clothing. At the same time, at the dawn of its appearance, the skirt had the simplest form: in fact, any piece of fabric wrapped around the body was a skirt. In addition, at the beginning of her history, she had no gender. Putting on a skirt, we do not even realize that in its folds it conceals a long and interesting history.
The prototype of the modern skirt is the loincloth of primitive people. It was used solely for the purpose of protecting the body. It was worn by both women and men. There was no special cut. The skin of the animal was simply wrapped around the thighs. Later, the loincloth appears in the costume of the ancient Egyptians. She is an attribute of a man's wardrobe. Length was of particular importance. The longer the skirt, the more noble its owner.
As with any other type of clothing, a particular influence on the skirt was exerted by time, peculiarities of culture, way of life, ethnicity, architecture, and climate. The skirt was not always as democratic as it is now. It has undergone many changes.
The unusual story of a regular skirt
The skirt appeared as an independent type of belt garment in the 15th century. It was called the "gothic skirt". It was from this time that the skirt was worn separately from the bodice. The length was in the floor, this was demanded by the time itself. Open body parts were not allowed in medieval clothing. In order to outwardly show the degree of their nobility, trains were sewn to the skirts. Their length directly depended on the class.
In the 16th century, the fashion for plumes passed. At the time, Spain was the trendsetter. It was in this country that the skirt with hoops appeared. The hoops significantly reduced the weight of the skirt, which previously had several layers and was lined with horsehair. This was a forced measure aimed at obtaining a fashionable, at that time, voluminous skirt shape. To put on such a skirt, they first put it on the floor, the woman went inside, and then the skirt was fixed at the waist. It was impossible to do without outside help. By the end of the 16th century, due to changes in the canons of beauty and proportional ratios in the suit, the shape of the skirt was also changed. It has become even wider at the bottom.
A brilliant time
The 17th century "liberated" the ladies. Skirts have become more comfortable, rigid structures have disappeared. However, since the silhouette with a narrow waist and wide hips remained in fashion, they began to wear several skirts at once. In winter, their number reached 12. It should be noted that there was only one petticoat. In this century, it was no longer bad manners to slightly bare the ankle.
In the 18th century, frames that set the silhouette of a skirt came into vogue again. The frames were made of wooden planks, connected with oilcloth, so the skirt made a rustle when walking. Such skirts were called "screamers". It was forbidden to visit temples in them. Those who did not listen to the ban, the skirt was taken away and publicly burned.
By the 80s of the 18th century, in order to further expand the skirt, a whalebone frame - figurine - was invented. Behind, below the back, a roller or pillow was still tied. The skirt became huge, it was no longer possible to enter the doorway in it. Therefore, a folding frame appeared.
In the middle of the 19th century, crinoline was in fashion - a linen cover that was intertwined with horsehair. Later, the crinoline was replaced with bone hoops, and then a wire frame. The crinolines have become so huge that many caricatures of the ladies' "toilet" have appeared.
By the end of the 19th century, a bustle was introduced - a special roller that was placed behind, thereby creating an ultra-fashionable S-shaped bend of the figure. Caricaturists did not ignore this squeak of fashion.
The skirt is the mouthpiece of democracy
The democratization of society in the 20th century, the struggle of women for equality, the emergence of a class of working women also contributed to the shape of the skirt. It has become more like a modern classic skirt. The skirt was straight, long and without a corset. At the beginning of the century, around 10-14, a “lame” skirt appeared. It was long and very narrow, intercepted at the ankle, so it was very problematic to move around in it.
In many ways, the image of the skirt was influenced by the theater, and even more by dancing. In the 18-19th centuries, the priority was given to the waltz, at the beginning of the 20th century - tango, then the Charleston, and later rock and roll. Therefore, the skirts began to change, their length began to rise dynamically. The most graceful and sexy were Charleston skirts with a high slit, revealing graceful female legs. This "style" was perceived by many with hostility.
Changes in the "turbo" mode
In the 20th century, the skirt, like many other types of clothing, changed almost every decade. First of all, the length changed. The famous Coco Chanel predicted that the skirt would "stop" at the mid-knee line, but she was wrong. Mini-skirts appeared and reached their zenith in the 70s. The optimal length was considered to be at the level of the hands down. After the mini, the length again reached the maxi, but it did not last long. In addition to the length, the silhouette also changed. From straight skirts to "new look" trapezoidal skirts. In addition to variations in length and silhouette, the design of the skirt and the means of its shaping also changed in the 20th century. So, there are tulip skirts, pencil skirt, "American" (petticoat), balloon skirt, trousers skirt (jupe culotte), wickelrock skirt and a number of others.
The foundation of a modern wardrobe
The skirt can rightfully be called the central piece of a lady's wardrobe. Any combination is possible with it, it would be a fantasy. Floor-length, short or low-cut to mid-knee skirts are indispensable in various situations. They are comfortable, practical, and most importantly feminine. Modern women choose skirts from all the variety of styles, relying solely on their own taste and taking into account the characteristics of their figure.
Author: Natalia Korzhueva