When studying medieval clothing, it is impossible not to notice the distinctive sleeveless cloak often worn over dresses and shirts. These clothes are called suerco. At one time, it was an integral part of royal dress, and was necessarily worn on ceremonial occasions.

The original surco (Surcot, Sorcos, Sorquaine) was a cloak worn by knights over their armour and was an element of combat gear.

Surco 12th century

A fine cloth suurko from the 11th century

A doll in armour and sukko

Historians believe that the practice of wearing sukkos in white was adopted during the Crusades. Their main purpose was to reflect the direct rays of the sun, which overheated the armour (and the soldier inside).

The sukko is based on a t-shaped silhouette. A wide variety of fabrics were used: linen, silk, brocade for finishing, lots of good quality wool dyed in blue, red, brown tones and the most common colours, black and green. Spain produced long-striped and cross-striped fabrics.

The sjurko became a weekend, ceremonial, ceremonial and military dress, and was belted when various attributes of power were worn.

A doll in a sukko

Medieval clothing for a paper doll

Originally, the length was just below the knees, sleeveless, with slits in the front and back necessary for comfortable riding.

Surco was worn by both men and women. The name comes from the French meaning 'over a coat'.

Surco - in the 12th century often decorated with the owner's coat of arms.

The women's sukko was long. While moving, you had to support the hem.

The shoulders were fitted with locks, metal plates with holes in them, into which a chain of plates or stitching was inserted to connect and hold the floors of the cloak together.

The large cutouts at the armholes of the sukko were also called 'windows of hell'. They allowed you to admire the beautiful curve of a lady's waist. Young ladies liked to lace up their sukkos to fit the shape.

Surco for a paper doll

Sukko pattern

Scheme and pattern for a women's sundress

Later, sleeves were added to the sukko, making it look like a dress.

In the XIV century women's sukko, differs from men's: it had a deep neckline and wide slits on the sides from shoulder to hip, through which the underwear peeked out. A low basque or "plastron" made of fur, richly decorated, was sewn into the chest. Some suurko without side seams fell down freely, others fit closely. However, the most beautiful suurko were very long, and those who wore them had to lift the hem when walking and show the lining of contrasting fabric or fur. Such clothes were worn from the second half of the 14th century until the beginning of the 15th century, and on ceremonial occasions until 1525.

The hooded sukko was also worn by monks. It was made of black or red cloth.

A nun in a sukko

Ophelia doll in a sukko

Source: Nunn, Joan, Fashion in Costume, 1200-2000, New Amsterdam Books, 2000

Photos are taken from open sources on the Internet.

With love and respect, Tatiana Kalinina